As is always the way, no sooner had we seemed to tumble stiffly out of the car surrounded by roll mats and crates of beer than I was hazily making my way back with noticeably depleted alcohol reserves. WOMAD has had pride of place on my calendar for over 10 years now, and with the line-up for 2009 as it was, it looked like yet another promising showcase of the world's musical talent.
Having settled nicely and with no sign of the predicted rainfall we made our way on site. Seeing the trademark colourful flags and silly hats and hearing the unmistakeable rhythms of the drum circle once again sent a shiver of excitement down my spine and I was hit with the festival vibe.
Astonishingly, the Thursday 'treat' performances were none other than The Penguin Café Orchestra and The Skatalites. The Café were a great start to the weekend, with their folky instrumental musings easing us in gently. Even without Simon Jeffes they maintained their kooky musical mastery (to be fair, they have had twelve years without him to sort it out!) and Arthur Jeffes (Simon's son) donned a particularly fabulous hat throughout. They played classics like Telephone and Rubber Band and Giles Farnaby's Dream as well as some new bits and bobs as reassurance of their musical progression. Unfortuantely, I think I must have missed Music For a Found Harmonium. I loved how the audience sang along despite the songs being lyricless - a sign of a truly engaged audience.
And if the Penguin Cafe were there to chill us out, The Skatalites were there to wake us up again. Out on the open air stage, they had the whole crowd in skanking unity. Guns of Navarone, Ska Ska Ska and You're Wondering Now had me muddying my vocal chords as well as my Doctor Marten boots. The threat of rain loomed over us but our good spirit seemed to push it into nothing more than half-arsed drizzle as nightfall crept over us.
Friday aka DUB DAY had the lineup that most excited me that weekend. The Little Red tent clearly seemed the place to be, with the music being kick-started by the Creole Choir of Cuba (try saying that after a couple of pints of Perry!). Punctuating traditional Cuban rhythms with catchy harmonies and colourful costumes, they set the bar high. The audience were not quite ready to dance wildly at this stage, but the next act on followed where The Skatalites left off with Dub Colossus producing some great bass-heavy beats to skank to. They are a relatively little-known but held the crowd easily as they locked into the off-beat and teasing vocal hooks. The WOMAD programme suggested an Ethiopian twist on dub though they seem to hail from London Town - I'm looking forward to seeing them again on the gig circuit if that's the case!
The second Dub meal of the day followed at 7pm. The great legend that is Mad Professor sat at the decks with the crown as king of dub still planted firmly on his head. His version of I Chase the Devil had all the Prodigy-diggin' yout dem skanking and shouting proud. I came out of that gig sweating and positively in awe of the body-shaking bass tremors I had just been blessed with.
The next act, Bristol-based RSD looked promising (and quite reminiscent of Bristol-based TC, who played last year. However, the soundsystem just couldn't seem to handle the bass that was being pumped out of it, resulting in distortion and a general lack of volume. Disheartened, I went and joined Zambezi Express and led the drum circle for a little while (fun!). When I returned, the soundsystem seemed to have sorted itself out and RSD was on a blinder. The whole tent was bouncing as he churned out some Drum and Bass dub-inspired choons. MC Joe Peng spat some great lyrics into the microphone. I don't know if it's the change in music variety at WOMAD or just a natural demographic shift, but WOMAD seemed a lot younger this year. There were certainly a lot of teenage yout going loopy in the red tent that night.
I must admit that Saturday was mainly spent in San Fran's Disco, supplier of 7.5% local brewed perry and exceptionally funky DJs. I did manage to catch the Chicago-based Hypnotic Brass Ensemble with their tasty blend of brass jam band and American hip-hop. They reminded me of The Youngblood Brass Band only with a more gutsy, less beourgeoisie edge to them. Radiokijada, brainchild of Rodolfo Munoz and Christoph Mueller of Gotan Project fame, put on a stunning set. Being french, I expected them to have a bit more funky and contemporary take on things, but I ended up being perfectly happy with their more traditional peruvian-latin vibes. It's only partially to do with the fact that they use the lower jawbone of a donkey as one of their core percussive instruments that I enjoyed it so much.
The rest of Saturday was spent avoiding Peter Gabriel on the open air stage (harder than it sounds!). Don't get me wrong, he's done a great thing in founding WOMAD and he's a talented musician, but I still find it a bit odd that he's billed himself as headliner of his own festival. I mean, you wouldn't catch Michael Eavis doing that at Glastonbury, would you? I'll give dear old Peter the benefit of the doubt, however, as I vaguely remember something about Boy George being billed earlier on in the year, so it could be possible that he was merely filling in.
Afro-Cuban Funk DJ Snowboy looked like a fantastic end to the evening, but it seemed that the earlier issues with RSD the previous night had returned to haunt the Big Red Tent. The soundsystem sounded half cut and made it too uncomfortable for us to listen to; it was borderline sacreligious to hear such great music in this castrated form. We left and instead spent the night talking rubbish and chilling out with fellow festival weirdos in the Chai tent.
Sunday aka FUNK day started lazily. We ambled in at 2pm to catch Styl'o'styl. They were perhaps the strangest act I saw at WOMAD this year (apart from the musical milkfloat that made melodies with partial empty milk jugs as does a merry-go-round). Live Miles Davis-style experimental funk was combined with three men performing breakin' and contemporary dance movements. It was very very French and ever so slightly twee in its execution. I think it might have been the dancer's frantic movements to the more freeform sections that did it. Nonetheless, it was a great way to ease our addled brains into a new day.
WOMAD then gave us two fabulous funk extravaganza with the all-powerful Sweet Vandals followed by my favourite funk discovery of the last few years, The Apples. Hailing from Madrid, The Sweet Vandals were electric. The frontwoman was a powerhouse of sound - think Beth Ditto of the funk world - and had an equally energetic group of musicians backing her. The bassist and hammond organist in particular were exceptional (the latter only had one hand, which tripped some of the more spangled festival-goers out quite a bit). The Apples produced an absolute sweat-fest with the entire crowd jumping to their brassy funk rhythms and frantic drum breaks. Their last song was an amazing cover of Rage Against the Machine - Killing In the Name that had all the audience under 30 belting their lungs out.
To my distress, I had to miss Youssou N'dour to see The Apples, who I'm told gave a sterling performance. There were so many acts on that I just couldn't manage to see, with worthy mentions including Caravan Palace, Roy Ayers and also Nneka, who apparently gave my brother an intense moment of musical enlightenment - gutted to have missed them!
WOMAD was a fantastic experience this year. As well as the music being divine at points, the people, the food and the weather were all I could hope for. It's not often that you're among so many people who are there simply to have a good time. Next year? Definitely. I'd really like to see Gilles Peterson, Panjabi MC, ESG or even Rob da Bank take the stage, but we knows what surprises Mr. Gabriel has in store!
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